From the Archives: Grey Silk Cape

The summer before Grad School I ran into Vogue 7923 -

-and it was VERY Jane Bennet goes to the Ball. Don’t you know.  Sort of.  Close Enough

And lo - in the stash I just happened to have a meter of silver silk duponi, and just enough pink silk for the ruffle and just enough gold to bind the edges - it was all sort of higgledy piggledy pastels that only mostly matched, but Jane Bennet would have liked that sort of thing.  (Well, she would have! Take another look at the video clip.)

When you cut on the grain, silk duponi frays like you can't imagine until you've tried it yourself.  Naturally, when I cut the ruffles I didn't leave any extra seam allowance to lose in the gathering process, and just as naturally I didn't serge or zigzag or fray check the edges or do anything else even vaguely sensible.

            Accordingly, Mum and I spent a tooth-clenching, nail biting day gathering meters and meters of half-inch ruffles very carefully and very VERY slowly. Actually, Mum, a veteran of more sewing stories than I've had breakfasts, gathered ruffles with calm and tranquility -  I did the teeth clenching and nail biting for both of us.

            At the end of that long  day I stitched the ruffles to the cloak, bound the raw edges with gold silk  and went over the whole perimeter of the cape with a pair of nail scissors hunting for stray threads - and managed to put the scissors right through the grey silk - an ugly jagged v-shaped tear.

            There might have been tears.

            And THAT foolish 'why didn't I leave it till tomorrow?' moment  is why there is a lovely embroidered flower on the edge of the hood, and only the tiniest HINT of fusible interfacing on the inside.  It's a couture touch.  Thank you VERY much, Mum. I owe you!!!!

From the Archives - A hat for AG Felicity's Meet Outfit

Here's the other half of the straw purse used to make Bella's lovely ribbon-wreathed hat!
            I know that the ribbons aren't supposed to cross over the top of the hat, but they look so sweet...

I am sewing, see?

Beaded chiffon and purple velveteen!

Yesterday I sat down and beaded  the edges of the orange chiffon scarf that I had hemmed while I was up in Brisbane.

And I bought the yummy elephant pattern for the new baby.

And I have fabrics, too!  B.W from my Wednesday sewing group cleaned out her stash last week and brought me a lovely stack of velveteens and small scale corduroys. I rather like these two for elephants.

Last night I put them through a hot wash, but I cleverly put the whole stack in together.  When I took them out of the machine, I found that a kleenex had slipped into the washing machine, and that between the tissue shreds the green velveteens were purple with purple fuzz and the purple velveteens were green with green fuzz...
            Oddly, the orange and black corduroy came through completely unmarked. 
            The velveteens are going back in the wash this morning.  Individually.  We'll see what happens after that.

Rain Trumps Hats

I was hoping to have photographs of a freshly cleaned felt hat today. Unfortunately, it has been raining solidly for three days straight now, and the general suspicion is that 100 percent enthusiastic humidity is NOT the sort of weather in which to cover a felt hat body with flour or baking soda or cornmeal and leave it to sit for a day.

You might not have a hat at the end of it.

So instead - here's a picture of a stuffed pig.

The Butterick Bonnet - that ALMOST was.

Last year I used Butterick Pattern #4210 to make an American Girl scale 1860s bonnet.
Mr Tabubil scanned the pattern pieces at work, and I imported them into autocad and traced and scaled them down to AG doll size.

I wish to go on record as saying that I loathe this pattern; several of the pieces didn't fit and had to be totally re-drafted.  That's ridiculous.
I sewed it from buckram, mulled it with flannel and covered it with pink silk duponi and white silk satin.  I don't like using glue (as per the pattern instructions) so I sewed it completely by hand - and something about the way this pattern held together - or didn't hold together - has made it take FOREVER to assemble.
And worse, all those hours down the track, I found that I'd forgotten to account for the mulling or the lining  - and the darned hat, at the end of all, doesn't actually fit the doll.

It was intended to be worn with Bella, but I can't seem to summon the enthusiasm to finish it.

Bah.

The Upon Discussion, Utimately Late Victorian Accessory Set: Capelet, Hat and Purse

This rather idiosyncratic ensemble was intended as a prototype for some eighteenth century accessories - a proof of concept exercise, if you like. What came out of it wasn't  particularly successful with regard to period or, arguably, aesthetics, but as proof of concept for pattern and construction, it worked exactly as ordered.
I suppose that's damning with faint praise, but it's all I've got!

Material Details:

The fabric was a remnant of stiff salmon-colored upholstery silk.   The trim is a rococo trim from Spotlight (a bit coarse, but the colors were right) with a green variegated 7mm silk ribbon twisted around it.  Beads and feathers were from my stash.

Hat:
The hat was based on the delicious and altogether edible millinery confections from the film Marie Antoinette - like this one:

My Version:

For the hat base I used a buckram wreath form left over from a wired ribbon workshop I took 15 years ago.  (Never throw ANYTHING out.  It all comes around in the end!) The wreath form is not a perfect circle and the center hole is off center and the buckram is not very strong - even reinforced with millinery wire around the brim.  I didn't mull the hat after I wired it, so you can see the outline of the bias binding I used to wrap the edge if you look at the underside ….

            I do like the trimming.   The cockade is made of more of the silk ribbon, a few feathers and a bunch of gold-tipped stamens from my stash. (Click on the image to see larger.)

            I tea-dyed the marabou feathers  - that was fun!  I'd never tea-dyed before and had read that vinegar and salt both work to fix the dye - I decided to add both to the water - for redundancy - and my pretty ecru-colored feathers turned a spectacular neon yellow orange.

I rinsed the color out and re-dyed them, using only salt this time, and it worked beautifully.

            Unfortunately, it's a leetle too small on the doll head for the eighteenth century, but it works CHARMINGLY as a non-period-specific  accent worn on the front of the head at a fetching angle. (blurry photo warning):

Mantelet:
The mantelet was drafted from the instructions at La Couturiere Parisienne.  It was supposed to look sort of like this (a la the small girl in blue):

It came out sort of like this:

Um.  The PATTERN worked lovely.  The muslin draped very nicely, as well.  If I'd been in my right mind I might have used a fabric for the final version that draped instead of using stiff upholstery silk, and I might not have used two layers of it (what on EARTH was I thinking?), as well as adding a nice stiff taffeta lining.

            And I might have used a lace that was scale appropriate and less Edwardian.  And if I had done THAT, I might not have gotten desperate and started doing COMPLETELY misguided rococo-ish figures of eight on the back of the mantelet to distract from the trim -

            As it was, I spent a whole evening twisting and couching that ruddy trim and at the end of it all I sat back and looked at it and said - "Um…"

            Mr Tabubil had HIS face pre-set into an expression of proud approval, but he took one look and cracked.  

        "Tabubilgirl" he said gravely "what you have here is a American Girl scale Christmas Tree Skirt."

Yeah.  That figure of eight is coming right off.  I plan to redo this mantelet in blue wool - lined with white silk satin, and it will drape BEAUTIFULLY.  And I won't trim it at all.

 

Purse:

I AM unambiguously proud of the purse - I used a scrap of the leftover silk and trimmed it with green embroidery floss - couching it with small seed beads, and twisting it into cord (6 strand cord for the profile and 4 strand cord for the handle.)

            It's not rococo - it's not true anything except what felt right at the time but - embroidery floss couched with beads!  Who needs an excuse for that?!

            This set languished in the closet until mum visited a few months ago.  Despairing lightly, I brought it out to show her.  She had a good look at it and pointed out that it wasn't that bad an ensemble - I had just confused myself by thinking it was mid-eighteenth century.  If I pushed the date forward one hundred years or so - I would work just fine!

            So here are my 1870s-ish accessories.  If my AG doll was a vaguely tarty sort who worked in a saloon in Denver where Doc Holiday came in nights to play the piano and she flirted her bustle at him and sat on his lap and kissed him around a shot glass full of raw moonshine whiskey.